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Home » Weapons » Axes, Hatchets & Tomahawks » Cold Steel Norse Hawk
$29.99
In stock
Shipping $8 - $45 in the lower 48 states, excluding PO/APO. Shipping calculated at checkout.
Capturing the Viking spirit, the Norse Hawks 4” blade features a highly curved cutting edge and terminates in two sharp points. These points increase the chance of a stick when the Norse Hawk is thrown.
| Overall Length | 23 1/4'' |
| Blade Length | 4 3/8'' |
| Weight | 1 lb 9.2 oz |
| Type | Tomahawk |
| Class | Battle Ready |
| Culture | Viking |
| Manufacturer | Cold Steel |
| Country of Origin | Taiwan |
Take advantage of our deposit option and pay only a deposit (+shipping) at this time. The cart will process this as a normal order and calculate your shipping costs so you know what to expect. When the item is available to ship we will contact you for the balance.
Please note: this deposit is non-refundable. Turn around time is an estimate and can vary depending on the manufacturer’s given work load.
This option is not for in stock items, it is only for special orders with long turnaround times. If you do order something marked as in stock, the stocked model will not be held for you. A new special order with the listed turnaround time will be started for you instead, to allow you the time to pay off the full price.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” (also known as “Stage Combat”) are specifically designed for combat reenactment, stage and film fights, and other activities where they will be hit edge to edge together.
Using a sword in this capacity is very different than how a sword would have been used historically, and as a result the sword must be made differently. Sport combat swords feature extra strong tangs and thick blades with thick edges. Sport combat swords will generally weigh more than a “Battle Ready” equivalent and are not made to be sharpened.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” will hold up to a fair amount of usage, but will wear out with time. No sword is indestructible, and “Sport Combat” swords are no exception.
Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.
The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.
The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.
We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.
A factory blemished model will have small cosmetic defects but no issues that will affect its function. Examples include, small surface scratches, scabbard dents or cracks, minor blade pitting, etc. Larger issues like blade chips, cracks, warps or anything else that will affect performance will not be included with these. Please note that we do not keep track of every specific minor blemish, so please do not contact us asking for details, we will not have them available. We are offering these items at a further discount for customers who are not overly concerned with cosmetics and intend to put them to some use.
A munitions grade item is not up to our normal high standards. Munitions grade items will typically have various bends or twists in the blades, basically rendering them as 2nds quality. These items are still a great choice for collecting and re-enacting and functional pieces will still be functional. Please keep this in mind when ordering.
Swords marked as “Battle Ready” are made to a higher standard than your average display weapons. The blades are usually made of carbon steel, as opposed to the more brittle stainless steel and feature longer and stronger tangs.
“Battle Ready” does not necessarily mean the blade is sharpened, this depends on the manufacturer. Some sell them sharp like Cold Steel, some dull like Windlass Steel Crafts, and some do both like Hanwei. So if you need to know if it is sharp or not and it is not mentioned in the description, just ask.
In general “Battle Ready” swords are functional weapons that will live up to actual combat usage. They are closest to historic examples in the fact that when properly sharpened they can cut as designed. However, “Battle Ready” does not mean indestructible. Any sword can be broken. Use common sense with your sword, and it will last for generations. A sword being listed as “Battle Ready” does not constitute a guarantee that it will withstand any abuse you can throw at it. “Battle Ready” swords are not designed for blade to blade type combat, you will want to select “Stage Combat” swords for this activity.
On blades, the “Width” is measured in millimeters and is taken where the blade leaves the hilt. A second measurement is provided when a blade widens further down, such as in a leaf shaped blade. The second measurement is taken at the blade’s widest point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
“Country Of Origin” refers to the coutry where the product was manufactured. This is not to be confused with the “Culture” spec. For example, a culturally “Japanese” Sword could be made in India, a culturally “German” sword could be made in the US or a culturally “Indian” sword could be made in China. The historic “culture” associated with a particular sword and the country a reproduction is currently being made in, are two separate things and should not be confused.
The Pommel entry refers to how the pommel, and usually by extension the whole sword, is held together. Possible values include “Peened” where the blade tang goes through the pommel and is hammered flat at the end, Threaded” where the end of the tang has threads and the pommel is screwed on, or “Nut” where the tang goes through the pommel and is secured by a separate threaded nut at the end.
On a sword, knife or dagger, The “Blade Length” spec is measured from the tip of the blade to where the blade enters the hilt, this will include a ricasso portion if present. For katanas, this measurement includes the habaki.
On a spear it is a measurement of the edged portion and does not include the socket. On an axe, it is a measurement of the axe edge itself, in a straight line from point to point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
As you’d imagine, “Overall Length” is the full length of the item in question. It is the length of the main item itself, not including any accessories. For example, this measurement for a sword would be for the sword itself, from the tip of the blade to the end of the pommel. This measurement will not include any scabbards, sheaths, boxes etc.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
“Thickness”, not to be confused with a blade’s “Width” is measured in millimeters on the blade where it first leaves the hilt and will refer to the thickest portion. For example the back edge on a katana or the mid section on a diamond shaped blade. Sometimes you will see two entries here, in that case it is usually because the blade is “distal tapered” meaning that it gets thinner towards the tip. The second measurement is taken approx. 1” from the tip.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
P.O.B. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Weight” spec refers to the item itself and does not include any packaging or accessories. For example, it would be the weight of a sword not including a scabbard.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp , Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. Consider this as a general guideline only.
The “Class” spec can have four possible values:
The “Culture” spec will denote if the item is associated with a specific group of people, conflict or geographic area. For example, “Viking”, “Crusader”, “Pirate”, “Indian” “WWII”, and so on. Please note that many items will not fall into a specific culture like this and were used by many peoples or across many time periods.
As you would imagine, the “Manufacturer” spec refers to the brand or company the item is made by. Not all products will have a manufacturer listed. Some products do not fall under a specific brand.
Unsharpened edges will be thinner than a “blunt” edge, but will not offer any cutting ability. They will typically taper towards an edge, but then stop short.
Jake –
Poorly made I got this to learn how to throw an axe. I watched some videos online and understood the basics. I take this out side and throw it at some plywood. Th first throw glanced off, the second stuck, and the third throw made the head fall off. When I took it out of the box, I noticed there was a sizable gap between the bottom of the head and the shaft, but being a beginners didn’t know that was an issue. The main issue is that the only thing holding the head in place is a little screw on the back of the loop that is not shown in any of the given pictures or description. When I ordered it, I specifically requested that the head would be fastened tight, and alas, it broke on me. I managed to screw the head back in place with an Allen wrench but every time i throw it the head falls off. I’m very disappointed in this axe and KOA’s service.
Mike M. –
Greatly made drop forged, sharp as hell powerful too Great handling axe when thrown or as a one handed war axe
Came with small bolt to secure head to haft holds well, so does the edge on Blade.
Well worth the money I bought one then another one be to make a chopper, then one more, 3 in all 2 choppers 1 thrower
Get 2 of em. Save on shipping lol
Bryan –
A good hawk that requires a bit of work I picked up one of these recently on closeout from another seller, this review is solely in regards to the product.
Like all Cold Steel hawks this one required work straight out of the box. I own several CS hawks each of which were purchased over a broad span of time (approximately 15 years), I’ve noticed with the more recent purchases that the hawks are needing more and more work to fix mistakes. Specifically the handles appear to now be installed by drunk, nearsighted monkeys at 4:00 pm on Friday. Most of us long time CS customers know what to expect with these hawks, but the newcomers don’t and it can cause some issues and disappointment.
CS hawks come with fairly poorly fit handles that are secured with a set screw, a layer of paint on the head that seems almost impossible to remove at times and one of the worst edges you’ll see outside of blunted combat weapons.
The Norse Hawk I purchased recently required a fairly sizable amount of work on the handle. A large amount of wood had been driven up the handle as the head was installed requiring removal of the head and a slight reshaping of the handle. To compound this issue, the set screw had been driven in so far that it had exited the head and was fully lodged in the wood. A very small portion remained just far enough out of the wood to stop the head from sliding off, but not far enough for the threads to catch. 20 minutes of wailing with a mallet drove the head off and allowed removal of the set screw (which was thoroughly stripped at this point). Another 10 minutes work with a cabinet file and the head fit like a glove.
This level of work is far more than what I had to deal with on the older CS hawks I own, but seems par for the course now, as many other CS customers are reporting the same at this time. As long as you know what you’re in for it’s not bad, if you don’t then it can be a surprise.
Mark Moore –
“JAKE”….I think you are ‘poorly made’…… I own three CS hawks, and they are the best deals on this website. I have the Norse, the Spike, and the Pipe hawks, and would trust my life to any of them, as weapons or tools. Yes…out-of-the box they are ugly, and sometimes the heads are a tad ill-fitting. All of this can be cured if you have half an idea of what you are doing at a workbench with some simple tools and supplies. The first thing I did upon getting my hawks was to remove the head and take out the set screw. Then I went to work with a bench grinder that has a stone on one side and a wire brush on the other. Use the wire brush wheel and acetone to remove that ugly black crap. It takes a while, but it comes off eventually. When it does , the steel underneath is beautiful and looks hand forged. To dress the handles a bit only takes sandpaper and a little elbow grease to get the clear coat off that horrid white wood. Get some wood stain, like a black walnut, and give it several coats. It will look great, and if you put a clear sealer on it, be sure its a flat or matte finish. You can spray the clear on the head also…just make sure it’s clean. Then you can reassemble the head and handle. Luckily, all of my handles fit fine, so I had no trouble from them. If you want, you can put a cord or leather wrap on the lower handle for a perfect grip. My Norse is in a display case forever, and razor sharp. My Pipe hawk is my camping buddy. The Spike hawk is my primary weapon for traveling with me. I did the head and handle in flat black, and gave it a half wrap of black paracord. See….now that didn’t sound so hard, did it? If anyone who reads this does not own one……..get one. Spend a few hours reworking them and you will have a beautiful custom hawk that will outlast you. KoA has the best prices, so get going!………..McM
GJ –
Great one All the cold steel hawks are great. They are small, but the speed at which you can swing them mean the impact they have is great. The Norse Hawk is unique in that the blade sweeps upwards and you have a nice point for stabbing or biting into wood during a throw. The quality is pretty consistent, and they are deferentially hardened, which is really hard to find in this price range.
Tip: throw away the set screw and sand the haft in order to get a really good friction fit between the head and the haft.
Evan –
Good bang for the buck Pretty simple piece, it’s a casted axe head driven onto a tapered Hickory handle with a set screw for added security. I’ve chopped some small pieces of poplar and birch with it and it’s held up alight, you may need to tighten the screw every now and then though.
Eric E. –
I split a log with it. Need I say more. Could not be more happy with this purchase. Sturdy feels great in the hand simply awesome.