Home » Swords » European Swords » Medieval Swords » Hand and a Half Spadona
$129.49 – $184.99
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The Hand and a Half Spadona Longsword has a blade of high carbon steel; the crossguard and pommel are steel and the wooden grip is tightly bound stitched in leather. The blade has a late medieval design with a sharply tapered blade intended to make it capable of thrusting into the weaker points of an armored defense, particularly when used in a half-sword grip.
the wood-core scabbard is overlaid in black leather.
| Overall Length | 46 5/8'' |
| Blade Length | 35 3/4'' |
| Weight | 3 lb 2.3 oz |
| Edge | Unsharpened |
| Width | 52.9 mm |
| Thickness | 3.6 mm - 2.3 mm |
| Pommel | Nut |
| P.O.B. | 3 1/4'' |
| Grip Length | 7 1/2'' |
| Blade | [EN45 High Carbon Steel] |
| Type | longsword |
| Class | Battle Ready |
| Manufacturer | Deepeeka |
| Country of Origin | India |
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” (also known as “Stage Combat”) are specifically designed for combat reenactment, stage and film fights, and other activities where they will be hit edge to edge together.
Using a sword in this capacity is very different than how a sword would have been used historically, and as a result the sword must be made differently. Sport combat swords feature extra strong tangs and thick blades with thick edges. Sport combat swords will generally weigh more than a “Battle Ready” equivalent and are not made to be sharpened.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” will hold up to a fair amount of usage, but will wear out with time. No sword is indestructible, and “Sport Combat” swords are no exception.
Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.
The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.
The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.
We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.
A factory blemished model will have small cosmetic defects but no issues that will affect its function. Examples include, small surface scratches, scabbard dents or cracks, minor blade pitting, etc. Larger issues like blade chips, cracks, warps or anything else that will affect performance will not be included with these. Please note that we do not keep track of every specific minor blemish, so please do not contact us asking for details, we will not have them available. We are offering these items at a further discount for customers who are not overly concerned with cosmetics and intend to put them to some use.
A munitions grade item is not up to our normal high standards. Munitions grade items will typically have various bends or twists in the blades, basically rendering them as 2nds quality. These items are still a great choice for collecting and re-enacting and functional pieces will still be functional. Please keep this in mind when ordering.
Swords marked as “Battle Ready” are made to a higher standard than your average display weapons. The blades are usually made of carbon steel, as opposed to the more brittle stainless steel and feature longer and stronger tangs.
“Battle Ready” does not necessarily mean the blade is sharpened, this depends on the manufacturer. Some sell them sharp like Cold Steel, some dull like Windlass Steel Crafts, and some do both like Hanwei. So if you need to know if it is sharp or not and it is not mentioned in the description, just ask.
In general “Battle Ready” swords are functional weapons that will live up to actual combat usage. They are closest to historic examples in the fact that when properly sharpened they can cut as designed. However, “Battle Ready” does not mean indestructible. Any sword can be broken. Use common sense with your sword, and it will last for generations. A sword being listed as “Battle Ready” does not constitute a guarantee that it will withstand any abuse you can throw at it. “Battle Ready” swords are not designed for blade to blade type combat, you will want to select “Stage Combat” swords for this activity.
On blades, the “Width” is measured in millimeters and is taken where the blade leaves the hilt. A second measurement is provided when a blade widens further down, such as in a leaf shaped blade. The second measurement is taken at the blade’s widest point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
“Country Of Origin” refers to the coutry where the product was manufactured. This is not to be confused with the “Culture” spec. For example, a culturally “Japanese” Sword could be made in India, a culturally “German” sword could be made in the US or a culturally “Indian” sword could be made in China. The historic “culture” associated with a particular sword and the country a reproduction is currently being made in, are two separate things and should not be confused.
The Pommel entry refers to how the pommel, and usually by extension the whole sword, is held together. Possible values include “Peened” where the blade tang goes through the pommel and is hammered flat at the end, Threaded” where the end of the tang has threads and the pommel is screwed on, or “Nut” where the tang goes through the pommel and is secured by a separate threaded nut at the end.
On a sword, knife or dagger, The “Blade Length” spec is measured from the tip of the blade to where the blade enters the hilt, this will include a ricasso portion if present. For katanas, this measurement includes the habaki.
On a spear it is a measurement of the edged portion and does not include the socket. On an axe, it is a measurement of the axe edge itself, in a straight line from point to point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
As you’d imagine, “Overall Length” is the full length of the item in question. It is the length of the main item itself, not including any accessories. For example, this measurement for a sword would be for the sword itself, from the tip of the blade to the end of the pommel. This measurement will not include any scabbards, sheaths, boxes etc.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
Take advantage of our deposit option and pay only a deposit (+shipping) at this time. The cart will process this as a normal order and calculate your shipping costs so you know what to expect. When the item is available to ship we will contact you for the balance.
Please note: this deposit is non-refundable. Turn around time is an estimate and can vary depending on the manufacturer’s given work load.
This option is not for in stock items, it is only for special orders with long turnaround times. If you do order something marked as in stock, the stocked model will not be held for you. A new special order with the listed turnaround time will be started for you instead, to allow you the time to pay off the full price.
“Thickness”, not to be confused with a blade’s “Width” is measured in millimeters on the blade where it first leaves the hilt and will refer to the thickest portion. For example the back edge on a katana or the mid section on a diamond shaped blade. Sometimes you will see two entries here, in that case it is usually because the blade is “distal tapered” meaning that it gets thinner towards the tip. The second measurement is taken approx. 1” from the tip.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
P.O.B. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Weight” spec refers to the item itself and does not include any packaging or accessories. For example, it would be the weight of a sword not including a scabbard.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp , Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. Consider this as a general guideline only.
The “Class” spec can have four possible values:
The “Culture” spec will denote if the item is associated with a specific group of people, conflict or geographic area. For example, “Viking”, “Crusader”, “Pirate”, “Indian” “WWII”, and so on. Please note that many items will not fall into a specific culture like this and were used by many peoples or across many time periods.
As you would imagine, the “Manufacturer” spec refers to the brand or company the item is made by. Not all products will have a manufacturer listed. Some products do not fall under a specific brand.
Unsharpened edges will be thinner than a “blunt” edge, but will not offer any cutting ability. They will typically taper towards an edge, but then stop short.
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Garry C. –
Could have been better Fine sword except for the unfinished grip.
Charles S. –
Deepeeka hit a home run with this sword! For a cheap brand (with it’s known reputation as producing sword like objects), Deepeeka did an outstanding job on this sword. Simple & clean design has a beauty in its self. This sword feels good in the hands, is responsive and lively. As I just received it today, I finished working through some various Meyers drills with it. I like it, I like it a lot. I recommend this sword as a great value.
In addition I suggest you check out Aikidokas review of this sword on Sword-Buyers-Guide.com. He took the sword down to show it’s tang, and also has some videos of him cutting with it.
Isabela –
this is my first sword :) i don’t have much to compare it with but it feels nice, and is really solid. much better than expected given this manufacturer’s reputation for heavy and unbalanced swords
michaelgreene42 (verified owner) –
Echoing a lot of what others have said here, this sword is probably one of the best you’ll find at this price point. A little plain, perhaps, but some folks prefer that to something more ornate. It’s well made, functional, and efficiently designed.
maba37027 (verified owner) –
Take my review with a heaping pile of salt, as I am a sword newbie with a collection that contains this sword and nothing else.
However I am able to say that this sword is extremely durable. The handling feels well and the balance is good. It comes with a really nice black leather wood core scabbard, which grips the sword so amazingly you can hold it upside down and even shake it a bit and it won’t fall out. The pommel is built nicely and the guard is solid.
That being said, there are some faults. The fuller on the blade is not even. On one side of the guard, it is centered fine, but on the other, it is so far off center that it can be a bit distracting. However, as I’ve heard from more experienced sword collectors, you can’t expect perfection out of this price range, and it is for that reason that I give it 5 stars. It is no perfect sword, but it is a damn good first sword and it is excellent quality for this price.
maba37027 (verified owner) –
Take my review with a heaping pile of salt, as I am a sword newbie with a collection that contains this sword and nothing else.
However I am able to say that this sword is extremely durable. The handling feels well and the balance is good. It comes with a really nice black leather wood core scabbard, which grips the sword so amazingly you can hold it upside down and even shake it a bit and it won’t fall out. The pommel is built nicely and the guard is solid.
That being said, there are some faults. The fuller on the blade is not even. On one side of the guard, it is centered fine, but on the other, it is so far off center that it can be a bit distracting. However, as I’ve heard from more experienced sword collectors, you can’t expect perfection out of this price range, and it is for that reason that I give it 5 stars. It is no perfect sword, but it is a damn good first sword and it is excellent quality for this price.
jmembry (verified owner) –
I had high hope for this sword, based on reviews. I knew it was a basic, no frills cutter, so I wasn’t expecting too much. However, having heard much of the “new & improved” talk from Deepeeka of late, I was hoping for something that I could maybe modify a bit. My plan was to take the sword apart (nut pommel connection), round off some of the squareness of the handle and re-wrap it with leather cord. To my great frustration, even with a nut pommel construction, I was unable to disassemble the sword. Deepeeka had completely filled to void inside the handle with epoxy. I pounded on the hardware with a plastic mallet, but to no avail. I was afraid I would break the crossguard, so I backed off and decided to leave it as is and just sharpen the blade. As I began to reinstall the pommel, I noticed it was out of round…by A LOT. Actually egg shaped, and the hole going through for the tang screw was not centered. This thing looked like a kid made it in Jr. High shop class. Try as I may, I could not get everything into alignment where it looked good. So, I simple assembled is as best I could get it to uniform alignment, and tightened t up, as much as I could. The nut is actually a small dome topped sleeve that it is almost impossible to get any king of tool to grip. I was happy with the blade, although with Deepeeka’s usual wavy inconsistent thicknesses along the length, and I got it very nicely sharpened (I use a 2X42 belt sander and varying degrees of grits and belt types).
Overall, my big gripe with this sword is the fit and finish of the handle and pommel. It was clear that quality control, which has never been Deepeeka’s strong suit, was definitely an afterthought on this sword. I hope this was just one of the old pre-new & improved examples from Deepeeka, as I still have high hopes for some of the new products they have coming in 2023. I did also recently purchase the Comte de Nieuwekerke and Aislinn Swords from Deepeeka which I am very happy with.
Luvs2spoodge556 (verified owner) –
Pretty disappointing. I bought the highest grade kult of Athena offers for this spadona and there’s a bend in the tip of the blade. There is also a kink in the blade at the end of the fuller and it looks like another blade was slammed into the cross guard. I dont fully blame kult of Athena considering deepeeka is known for being lesser quality, but for the price I paid all of this is unacceptable. I could have gotten the same quality wall hangers for around $30-$40. Probably the last time I ever order from here again
InwardHook (verified owner) –
This is my first sword and i love it fit is good, no wobbles,. i ordered the sharpening service and they did an amazing job