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Home » Swords » European Swords » Medieval Swords » Hanwei War Sword
$239.99
In stock
Shipping $8 - $45 in the lower 48 states, excluding PO/APO. Shipping calculated at checkout.
The War Sword is a hand-and-a-half design from the early 14th century. The hardwood grip and elongated scent-stopper pommel make the 32” blade surprisingly easy to handle. Features a tempered high carbon steel blade with steel guard and pommel. The grip is hardwood covered in black leather. Includes a wood scabbard with leather warp.
| Overall Length | 40'' |
| Blade Length | 31 3/4'' |
| Weight | 2 lb 11.8 oz |
| Edge | Moderately Sharp |
| Width | 36.3 mm |
| Thickness | 4.7 mm - 3.7 mm |
| Pommel | Peened |
| P.O.B. | 4 3/8'' |
| Grip Length | 6 '' |
| Class | Battle Ready |
| Manufacturer | Hanwei |
| Country of Origin | China |
Take advantage of our deposit option and pay only a deposit (+shipping) at this time. The cart will process this as a normal order and calculate your shipping costs so you know what to expect. When the item is available to ship we will contact you for the balance.
Please note: this deposit is non-refundable. Turn around time is an estimate and can vary depending on the manufacturer’s given work load.
This option is not for in stock items, it is only for special orders with long turnaround times. If you do order something marked as in stock, the stocked model will not be held for you. A new special order with the listed turnaround time will be started for you instead, to allow you the time to pay off the full price.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” (also known as “Stage Combat”) are specifically designed for combat reenactment, stage and film fights, and other activities where they will be hit edge to edge together.
Using a sword in this capacity is very different than how a sword would have been used historically, and as a result the sword must be made differently. Sport combat swords feature extra strong tangs and thick blades with thick edges. Sport combat swords will generally weigh more than a “Battle Ready” equivalent and are not made to be sharpened.
Swords listed as “Sport Combat” will hold up to a fair amount of usage, but will wear out with time. No sword is indestructible, and “Sport Combat” swords are no exception.
Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.
The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.
The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.
We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.
A factory blemished model will have small cosmetic defects but no issues that will affect its function. Examples include, small surface scratches, scabbard dents or cracks, minor blade pitting, etc. Larger issues like blade chips, cracks, warps or anything else that will affect performance will not be included with these. Please note that we do not keep track of every specific minor blemish, so please do not contact us asking for details, we will not have them available. We are offering these items at a further discount for customers who are not overly concerned with cosmetics and intend to put them to some use.
A munitions grade item is not up to our normal high standards. Munitions grade items will typically have various bends or twists in the blades, basically rendering them as 2nds quality. These items are still a great choice for collecting and re-enacting and functional pieces will still be functional. Please keep this in mind when ordering.
Swords marked as “Battle Ready” are made to a higher standard than your average display weapons. The blades are usually made of carbon steel, as opposed to the more brittle stainless steel and feature longer and stronger tangs.
“Battle Ready” does not necessarily mean the blade is sharpened, this depends on the manufacturer. Some sell them sharp like Cold Steel, some dull like Windlass Steel Crafts, and some do both like Hanwei. So if you need to know if it is sharp or not and it is not mentioned in the description, just ask.
In general “Battle Ready” swords are functional weapons that will live up to actual combat usage. They are closest to historic examples in the fact that when properly sharpened they can cut as designed. However, “Battle Ready” does not mean indestructible. Any sword can be broken. Use common sense with your sword, and it will last for generations. A sword being listed as “Battle Ready” does not constitute a guarantee that it will withstand any abuse you can throw at it. “Battle Ready” swords are not designed for blade to blade type combat, you will want to select “Stage Combat” swords for this activity.
On blades, the “Width” is measured in millimeters and is taken where the blade leaves the hilt. A second measurement is provided when a blade widens further down, such as in a leaf shaped blade. The second measurement is taken at the blade’s widest point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
“Country Of Origin” refers to the coutry where the product was manufactured. This is not to be confused with the “Culture” spec. For example, a culturally “Japanese” Sword could be made in India, a culturally “German” sword could be made in the US or a culturally “Indian” sword could be made in China. The historic “culture” associated with a particular sword and the country a reproduction is currently being made in, are two separate things and should not be confused.
The Pommel entry refers to how the pommel, and usually by extension the whole sword, is held together. Possible values include “Peened” where the blade tang goes through the pommel and is hammered flat at the end, Threaded” where the end of the tang has threads and the pommel is screwed on, or “Nut” where the tang goes through the pommel and is secured by a separate threaded nut at the end.
On a sword, knife or dagger, The “Blade Length” spec is measured from the tip of the blade to where the blade enters the hilt, this will include a ricasso portion if present. For katanas, this measurement includes the habaki.
On a spear it is a measurement of the edged portion and does not include the socket. On an axe, it is a measurement of the axe edge itself, in a straight line from point to point.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
As you’d imagine, “Overall Length” is the full length of the item in question. It is the length of the main item itself, not including any accessories. For example, this measurement for a sword would be for the sword itself, from the tip of the blade to the end of the pommel. This measurement will not include any scabbards, sheaths, boxes etc.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
“Thickness”, not to be confused with a blade’s “Width” is measured in millimeters on the blade where it first leaves the hilt and will refer to the thickest portion. For example the back edge on a katana or the mid section on a diamond shaped blade. Sometimes you will see two entries here, in that case it is usually because the blade is “distal tapered” meaning that it gets thinner towards the tip. The second measurement is taken approx. 1” from the tip.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
P.O.B. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Weight” spec refers to the item itself and does not include any packaging or accessories. For example, it would be the weight of a sword not including a scabbard.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of.
The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp , Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case.
Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. Consider this as a general guideline only.
The “Class” spec can have four possible values:
The “Culture” spec will denote if the item is associated with a specific group of people, conflict or geographic area. For example, “Viking”, “Crusader”, “Pirate”, “Indian” “WWII”, and so on. Please note that many items will not fall into a specific culture like this and were used by many peoples or across many time periods.
As you would imagine, the “Manufacturer” spec refers to the brand or company the item is made by. Not all products will have a manufacturer listed. Some products do not fall under a specific brand.
Unsharpened edges will be thinner than a “blunt” edge, but will not offer any cutting ability. They will typically taper towards an edge, but then stop short.
Brendan –
Hanwei War Sword I love this sword!!! It’s very well balanced, not very sharp (oh well, can be fixed), and very light weight for its size. All in all, a great buy. Shipping was fast and hassle free as always.
Robbie –
I love this thing. There were no available reviews anywhere to be found when I first bought the Hanwei War Sword a little over a month ago but it’s a solid, wobble-free weapon with good balance. Glad I took a chance on this one!
anonymous –
meh The sword has good balance and weight, but the handle is loose and the pommel is unconformable to hold after a few cuts. Hopefully I can get a replacement.
Kellen Rosenberger –
Excellent beginner hand-and-a-half sword I got this sword in the mail today (great shipping) and I’m very happy with my initial reactions. The sword feels solid, if only slightly sharp. The blade itself has a decent flex and pretty good balance – with the scabbard having about the same general quality.
I intend on updating this once I get a few good test swings in with it – but overall happy with the quality and price so far!
ricky –
bought this as my first sword I have to say i like it ts not too heavy, feels good in the hand but it needs to be sharped. over all i love it.
Honestreviews –
Honestly buy one, you wont regret it! Build like a tank!!! Owned one for years ad its quality exceeds the price tag by miles. Only downside is the sharpness of the sword. Would be nice to have it sharpened. Other than that, it handles beautifully, its not too heavy and doesn’t wobble too much.
Daniel J. –
Probably the best value-for-dollar in hand-forged, medieval-style combat swords Could not be happier with mine. I had been wanting something like this for awhile, and I never settled on a particular sword because there were several different styles I really liked, and every time I saw a particular sword, and said “that’s one I want!” they would be way outside my price range. Furthermore, I am only 5’8″ 140-ish lbs. so there is a limit to the size of sword I can reasonably carry and wield – then I saw this sword and knew it was perfect, and it has been. It’s quality it’s unreal for the price you pay – they didn’t polish the blade or the hilt components, but so what? They’re hand-made with lost-wax casting, the blade is 1566 hi-carbon spring steel, with hand quenching (hardening) and tempering (increasing ductility and durability) with a perfect size- big enough for a “hand-and-a-half” grip with two hands (second hand partially gripping the pommel, which is perfectly comfortable) but extremely agile and nimble in your hands and totally usable with one hand. Hanwei does not make the fanciest or flashiest stuff but they make some excellent products with outstanding quality-to-price ratio. I used an AccuSharp to sharpen mine, which many sword experts will say “ruins the blade geometry” but I couldn’t care less, the thing is extremely sharp now and very easy to touch up in the future by polishing along the edge. I’d love an Albion someday or maybe even one of the $350 step-ups from several different manufacturers but this price can’t be beat for what you get. Also, I think it looks pretty badace too.
Nicholas –
Best sword ! I guess it’s the best one handed sword :)) Yes, it is said that it is a hand and a half sword but it isn’t soo long and soo heavy such as otcher 1.5 hand swords I have trained with. This one is a very good sword, ther is no need in looking for more expensive ones. It can handle a lot. I would deffinitly recommend it to all begginners looking for not expensive, not too heavy & well ballanced silgle hand sword (of course with an ability to put on second hand).
G –
Hanwei War Sword A quality item through and through. Well-made, not a single blemish, no unnecessary wiggle. The length of the hilt and the shape of the pommel allows comfortable wielding even for those with larger hands. Proportions are both utilitarian and historically accurate. Requires minimal maintenance to remain in top shape.
Basically, if you want a hand and a half sword, this is the sword you want.
Nicolas K. –
Not so good I was cutting some branches from a dead tree and the tang broke apart from the blade, i was very disapointed because i buyed this after filter as battle ready in the online page, the branches were slim and were totally drenched and very soft.
After checking the point of breaking the steel showed signs of bad tempering.
AA –
Excellent Beginner Sword for those who want to get in to Collecting or Solo-training for HEMA. At $200, this thing is a hell of a lot of value for the price. The construction is solid, and the hilt assembly seems to be nice and tight. It doesn’t say here but according to other research I believe the blade is 5160 Spring Steel which is an excellent, higher-quality alloy steel that has good toughness and edge retention. The balancing is as-advertised and the grip feels good in the hand. It’s a good middle point between one-handed arming swords and more dedicated two-handed longsword, and so with a little bit of compensation can reasonably be used to practice both one-handed and two-handed techniques. The standard sharpening is absolutely not enough to cut paper, but the edge is still decent enough that it can be sharpened easily, though if you don’t have the ability to do it yourself and you want to do test-cutting right away, I’d recommend adding on the sharpening service. My only real complaint is the scabbard has an ugly looking stitch on the leather, and it seems like occasionally the blade will try to dig in to the wood on the interior, causing it to get stuck. Some small wood chips actually came out stuck to the oil on the blade at one point and I didn’t have any issues with that afterward, so maybe it was just a poor finish on the wood.
All in all, as somebody who’s finally taken the first few steps in to HEMA and sword collecting in general, I couldn’t be happier with this purchase.
Crazy blind Jake –
Definitely purchase one of these. It’s an amazing sword for the price and in all honesty whether you’re buying it to add just to your collection or you plan on practicing with it you will be extremely pleased. Good steel good quality good make.
Roman (verified owner) –
It’s good for its price. I paid extra for sharpening and it’s shaving sharp and it feels good in the hand. I’m only worried that the pommel was peened a little too flush and that it might break but it hasn’t after days of hitting hard/soft snow with it. There’s a faint rattle and the handle is a little short but overall I love it.