Overview
Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.
The Sharpening Process
The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.
What the Service is Not
The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.
Disclaimer
We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.
Robert –
300-100 BCE “Celtic.”. For the money, ($83) this is a well made and solid weapon. I can’t make one of this quality for anywhere near that cheap. But “cheap” it is not. I was pleasantly surprised by yhe scabbard, with a Le Tene style motif, and correct side mount is good for a baldric. If not 100% period accurate it is possible, and is good for Faire, SCA, or any non-Living Historical venue. Wooden pommel of course makes for a tip heavy wielding but the shorter lengh allowed for good cutting power. I sharpened mine, and it held edge for mat and pine cutting tests. The pommel had a cheesy modern brass acorn nut that I filed smooth as to appear as a peened pommel. Over all, for the price I was impressed.
johnrichardson337 –
For less than 100$ you are getting a fairly accurate, carbon steel Celtic sword that will hold an edge once sharpened and can make cuts as good as anything sub 200$. The wood hilt definitely makes this sword blade heavy, but with that being said many examples of iron age Celtic swords were thought to have wooden hilts so while not ideal by modern standards it is at least period accurate. Only complaint from me is the handle itself is a bit too narrow and the pommel nut needed a tiny bit of tightening out of the box but other than those minor flaws this a Deepeeka sword worth the risk.
Merlin Olivebranch –
I’ve had this sword for a few years and I like it more now than when it was new. Not a bad blade for the price, a bit wavy, but I don’t think that’s a bad thing on a replica of a 2,000+ year old design. I bought it mainly for Druid ceremonial use which involves partially drawing the sword and returning it. The edges were digging into the scabbard, so I has to do a bit of sanding on both for smoother operation.