Overview
Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade.
The Sharpening Process
The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. We can sharpen only the last half or third of an edge, for example. Our sword sharpening expert has personally sharpened several thousand swords at this point, so will provide you with a professional service.
What the Service is Not
The resulting edge will be “sword sharp” not razor sharp. Our goal is to provide you with a usable edge for cutting practice that will hold up to some use and not require constant re-sharpening. In other words, we intend to provide you with a serviceable weapon, not a personal grooming implement. The service will not provide a completely bevel-less edge. To create that type of edge will necessarily scratch up the blade surface and we lack the machinery and time to provide a full re-polishing of a blade’s surface. A service of that nature would be significantly more expensive as a great deal more time would be required. We do not offer this type of service at this time.
Disclaimer
We make no guarantee that the resulting edge will meet with your expectations. Every blade is different and some will take and hold a sharper edge than others, due to the blade material, heat treatment or geometry. Some customers can also have incorrect assumptions about sword sharpness and improper expectations as a result. All we can say for sure is that the resulting edge will be sharper than the default edge, in most cases, significantly so. We can not provide any refunds for the service once it has been completed, so consider it to be provided “as is”. That being said, if you are unhappy with the product for any reason, we do still allow you to return the item for a full refund, including the sharpening costs under our normal return policy. This does not apply to special sharpening requests, for example if we sharpen something specially for you that does not normally list that option on our site. The vast majority of our customers are happy with the results of the service, so as long as you keep the above mentioned in mind, we are confident you will be pleased with the results as well.
primarchmode@gmail.com –
I’ve used this sword for almost everything, from cutting down vines and tall weeds, small branches and brush to fruit, tin cans and taitami. The blade has held up exceptionally well, better than I could have imagined actually with minimal maintenance besides regular oiling, basic cleaning and occasional waxing. It handles well enough, the swept hilt and handguard give it a little more weight on one side than the other which takes a few attempts to get used to but it cuts very well. The blade remains thin enough at the cutting section while still being rather thick at the ricasso and the robust spine giving it a decent amount of power as it tapers down the length of the blade. Despite all its been through, the factory edge is still exceptionally sharp and it has absolutely no major wear or damage along the edge. I cut into cans along the lip at vertical angles dozens of times with this rather forcefully with absolutely no damage to the edge, not to mention thin branches, which I consider impressive. The clip point is also well suited to thrusting and the false edge can be sharpened although I personally don’t sharpen mine. It’s a short sword keep in mind, but as for handling goes it’s slightly heavy for it’s size and shape. It’s certainly not the most “nimble” sword, but what you get in exchange for agility is an extremely resilient and powerful edge. My only other complaint is about the screw pommel. I know Gus swears by them and they can be tightened . . . but it just makes the sword feel flimsy. Mine started coming lose within a month of using it, although I will admit, I wasn’t exactly being gentle with it and it was nothing a little tightening up couldn’t fix. I can’t reiterate enough how much it impressed me with how tough it was however, and I would recommend this to anyone looking for an entry level cutlass for practice cutting.
goyoelburro2 (verified owner) –
I’ve owned this blade for some time now, and it has stood up well.
I don’t do a lot of cut testing, and it could use a sharpening, but that’s pretty easily remedied.
On the whole this is one of my favorite swords in my collection!
John Biltz (verified owner) –
I’m not a sword guy. This is my first sword although I own some quality knives and pretty much bought it for its looks and size. I also watched a few videos about it. The unboxing: it came in a slightly oversize box (good) so it was well protected. It was wrapped in brown paper, lots of it and the box was filled with the same. There was also a plastic tip protector on it, nice.
It was not the sharpest blade. It would catch on the back of a finger nail but it was not going cut a finger when you feel the edge. Probably a good thing. I can safely show it off then in a couple of weeks put a real edge on it.
The only thing I can see wrong with it was the quillions were off of north south true by a few degrees. I think if I took them off and put them back on they might be straight. Not a real problem in a practical sense. And you have to take a good look to even notice it.
Over all I’m quite happy with it.
Ray Blundell (verified owner) –
I bought a blem.,it had a 1/2″ grind mark on one side of the prommel,the guard was lose so I put some leather between the grip and the guard to tighten it up. also there was a very slight mark on the grip like a tiny scrape.On minr the grip is 4&2/8″,prommel is 1&1/2″ high,1&4/8 wide,and 1& 1/2″ tall.blade length is 25&1/2″,the weight of sword with out seath is 2.3. pounds,the distal taper is 6mm-4mm-2mm,pob is 4&1/8″, I personal like the hex nut set up,but on mine the grip is secured ,some coundn’t get the grip off.Other than puttingsavings of some lether between grip and the guard the grip was done well,the guard and prommel finished is nice.The blade came sharp enough to cut little but I wanted to refine it little after it cut better,tried it out on various water bottles..The seath design on the seath is really nice.All in all I really like the sword,it is fast and handles great,so much so I just bought the scottish singlle hand sword.I feel to me this sword-koa discribes as a cutless is a falchion.would I recommed this sword yes.Rember to only cut water bottles and bamboo,safe cutting Ray Blundell
Noah (verified owner) –
I bought one of these it arrived in one piece. This sword looks absolutely stunning and the scabbard it arrived in as well. I very much like the thickness and the feel of the handle and blade. Only thing I dislike about the sword I received was the blade I received as dull as a butter knife.